Island Peak Expedition 6160M/20205FT

Island Peak Expedition 6160M/20205FT Trip Outline

DAY 01: MEET IN CHUKUNG (4750M/15580FT) 4-5 HRS
DAY 02: TREK TO BASE CAMP (5150M/16892FT) 5-6 HRS (A,B,L,D)
DAY 03: HIGH CAMP (5300M/17384FT) 4-5 HRS (A,B,L,D)
DAY 04: Island Peak (6160M/20205FT) & return to Base Camp (5150M/16892FT) 8-9 HRS (A,B,L,D)
DAY 05: RETURN TO CHUKUNG VALLEY 3-5 HRS (A,B,L)

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Imja Tse peak, at a height of 6,160 meters, is more popularly known by the name of Island Peak. The peak was named Island peak by Eric Shiptons party in 1953, as the peak resembles an island in a sea of ice when viewed form Dingboche. Later in 1983, the peak was renamed as Imja Tse. The peak was first ascended in 1953 by a British team as preparation for climbing Everest. Tenzing Norgay was one of the members who successfully ascended it. The peak is part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and the main land forms a semicircle of cliffs that rise to the north of the summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak and Lhotse Shar. Cho Polu and Makalu lie to the east of the Island Peak. Baruntse, Amphu and Ama Dablam lie to the south.

The normal route:

The base camp of Island Peak lies in Chukung Valley, between Island Peak and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper care should be taken to avoid the possible avalanche in the event of heavy snowfall. From the base camp, a well-acclimatized party in good conditions can make the summit and return to the base camp in a day. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine style camping at high camp, which adds the joy of climbing and helps a safe ascent. From the base camp the route skirts southeast around and base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open gully which leads between two ridges to the site of high camp on at 5, 280m. From the high camp, the lefts hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit is a little difficult due to steep climbing.

  • Overview
  • Detail Itinerary
  • Date & Cost
  • Trip Photos & Videos
  • Testimonial
  • Essential Info
QUOTATIONS BASED ON: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Full package in group joining basis 2599 2132 1898 1735 1667 1551 1505
Service (only) in and above base camp 1454 1097 885 744 697 602 577

Brief Itinerary

DAY 01: ARRIVE KATHMANDU (A)
DAY 02: SIGHTSEEING IN KATHMANDU 3 HRS (A,B)
DAY 03: FLY TO LUKLA, TREK TO CHUMA (2,743m). 5-6 HRS. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 04: TREK TO NAMCHE BAZAAR (3,445m). 6 HRS. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 05: TREK TO THAME (3,801m). 3-4 HRS. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 06: TREK TO KHUNDE (3,840m) 4-5 HRS. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 07: REST DAY AND ACCLIMATIZATION DAY. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 08: TREK TO THYANGBOCHE (3,863m). 4-5 HRS. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 09: TREK TO DHINGBOCHE (14267FT/4350M). 5 HRS. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 10: TREK TO CHUKUNG (4750M/15580FT) 4-5 HRS.
DAY 11: TREK TO BASE CAMP (5150M/16892FT) 5-6 HRS (A,B,L,D)
DAY 12: HIGH CAMP (5300M/17384FT) 4-5 HRS (A,B,L,D)
DAY 13: SUMMIT (6160M/20205FT)- RET. BC (5150M/16892FT) 8-9 HRS. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 14: SPARE DAY (A,B,L,D)
DAY 15: TREK TO PANGBOCHE (4,000m) 4-5 HRS. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 16: TREK TO MONG LA (3,973m)  5-6 HRS (A,B,L,D)
DAY 17: TREK TO CHUOMA (2,743m) 5-6 HRS (A,B,L,D)
DAY 18: TREK TO LUKLA (2,880m). 6 to 7HRS (A,B,L,D)
DAY 19: FLY TO KATHMANDU. (A,B)
DAY 20: AT LEISURE IN KATHMANDU. (A,B)
DAY 21: FLY BACK. (B)
(Abbreviation: A-Accommodation, B-Breakfast, L-Lunch, D-Dinner)

Itinerary Detail

DAY 01: ARRIVE KATHMANDU (A)
Airport representative of Eco-friendly Trek will meet; well-come you with flower beat and transfer you by private vehicle to your hotel. The rest of the day at leisure to adjust to the culture shock of medieval Kathmandu, with its bustling bazaars interspersed with shrines and temples and interesting architecture. In the evening you can either eat in at your hotel or venture out to one of the many restaurants in Thamel. Overnight.

DAY 02: SIGHTSEEING IN KATHMANDU 3 HOURS (A,B)
KATHMANDU 3 hours Half-day sightseeing  to Kathmandu Durbar Square, Monkey Temple & Pashupati Nath Temple. All are world cultural heritage sites listed by UNESCO. Rest of the day finalizes trekking permit (TIMS), national park permit and final packing for the trekking.

DAY 03: FLY TO LUKLA, TREK TO CHUMA (2,743m). 5-6 hours. (A,B,L,D) Trekking inside Everest National Park the UNESCO listed Natural  World Heritage Site. You will be transferred from your hotel to the airport for the flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. This is one of the most spectacular flights in the world. As you fly east, the snow line of the Himalayan range to the north, will be on your left, with the rugged foothills of Nepal immediately below and stretching away to the south on your right. Lukla is situated high above the river on a shelf at 2,800m, and arriving there is a one off experience because the runway is on a slope and there is a difference of almost 60 metres between its lower and upper ends which all makes for an interesting landing! On arrival you can have a cup of tea while your staff sort out your baggage. From the airstrip you will head north-west, through the village of Lukla and descend to the Dudh Khosi river at Phakding (2,652m). The path leads upstream along the valley, through areas of conifer trees and several more small villages. Another 2-3 hours walking will bring you to Chumoa, a small and picturesque village of about 25 houses located below Thamserku mountain (6,618m) at an altitude of about 9,301ft/2,835m and close to the entrance to the Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park. Overnight lodge.

DAY 04: TREK TO NAMCHE BAZAAR (3,445m). 6 hours. (A,B,L,D)
A principal benefit of walking as far as Chumoa on the first day is that you can walk up the steep hill to Namche when fit and fresh in the early morning. Shortly after leaving Chomoa you cross the Monjo Khola and continue to the park gates of the Sagarmartha National Park where you complete entry formalities. You then walk on alongside the river to arrive at the confluence of the Imja Drangka and the Nangpo Drangpo, which combine to form the Dudh Khosi. Crossing the river on a high bridge you start the steep climb to Namche. Near the halfway point up the hill, if the sky is clear, your first views of Everest and Lhotse come into sight. You then continue the climb, less steeply now, to Namche. Namche is the largest and most prosperous village in the Khumbu. Thamserku (6,618m) and Kwangde (6,224m) loom to the east and west and the sacred mountain Khumbila (5,707m) dominates the skyline to the north behind the village. The narrow streets at its centre are a mixture of traditional and modern, with Sherpa homes mingled with cafes, handicraft shops and shops selling or renting trekking and climbing equipment, foodstuffs and vegetables, tennis shoes and Tibetan boots. Don’t be surprised if, after the exertion of the climb and the rise in elevation, you feel a little tired and head-achey. You will feel better after a cup of tea and a rest. Overnight lodge. 

DAY 05: TREK TO THAME (3,801m). 3-4 hours. (A,B,L,D)
Today you head north-west, up the Nangpo Drangpo valley (Bhote Khosi). As you walk up the valley, up to your left you have fine views of Kwangde (6,343m) and the waterfalls cascading off its flanks. You continue high above the river, the Bhote Khosi, on a contouring trail through fine rhododendron forest. Watch out along here for colorful Impeyan Pheasant (the Nepalese national bird) and small deer. Just before the village of Thamo you cross a side valley (Kyajo Kola) and from there you can look back for fine views of Thamserku (6,648m) and Kusum Kangru (6,370m). You might choose to visit the little nunnery passed just as you leave the village. Leaving Thamo you continue up the valley, still staying high above the river before descending to cross the river near some Buddhist rock paintings. For the final part of the walk you climb alongside a small stream to arrive at the cultivated fields in front of Thame village. This is where Tenzing Norgay, the first Sherpa ever to climb Mt. Everest, lived for many years with his first wife. If you are still feeling energetic on arrival you could make the short climb (about 1 hour) to Thame monastery clinging to the cliff side above the village in a truly spectacular location. The monks here have a Mani Rimdu festival every year in the late spring. You climb to the top of the ridge above the village and then ascend left to the monastery. From the monastery terrace there are fantastic views back down the valley of the mountains beyond Namche. As you descend from the monastery it is worth while walking to the end of the ridge to look up the valley towards the Nangpa La, a pass to leading to Tibet and a principal trade route between Nepal and Tibet for many hundreds of years. Overnight lodge.

DAY 06: TREK TO KHUNDE (3,840m) 4-5 hours. (A,B,L,D)
In the morning, if you did not have time yesterday you may visit the Thame gompa. You then descend back down the valley. Crossing back over the Kyajo Khola you will take a high, scenic trail up to the left which by-passes Namche and ascends past the high airstrip at Syangboche and continues over the top of the ridge before descending to Khunde. Overnight lodge. Clients on the December departure in appropriate date will celebrate Christmas here.

DAY 07: REST DAY AND ACCLIMATIZATION DAY. (A,B,L,D)
To assist with acclimatization another day is spent in Khunde. You may explore the area and your guide will suggest possible excursions. You may visit the controversial Everest View Hotel (lots of good stories behind that!). Situated above the village of Khumjung in a spectacular position this is an extremely ugly, Alcatraz-like building and although out of keeping with its surroundings there are really superb views from its terrace. You can enjoy a cup of tea or a hot lemon while looking out at Everest and other Himalayan giants. It might also be possible to visit the clinic in Khunde and the Khumjung School (both projects supported by the Himalayan Trust). The picturesque little gompa in Khumjung, set in a grove of trees above the houses of the village, is also well worth a visit. On payment of a small donation to the caretaker you may be allowed to see the so-called head of a yeti which is kept there. For those feeling more energetic it might be possible to take a packed lunch and go further afield. It is possible to climb the ridge above Khunde, to 4,238m, to view Mount Everest and Ama Dablam. You could also visit the memorial to Sir Edmund Hillary’s wife and daughter who were tragically killed in an air accident. This excursion would be good for acclimatization as you would end up sleeping lower than you have climbed during the day – it is a mantra of good acclimatization to ‘climb high, sleep low’. Overnight lodge.

DAY 08: TREK TO THYANGBOCHE (3,863m). 4-5 hours. (A,B,L,D)
The trail descends from Khumjung with chortens forming a dramatic frame to a view of Ama Dablam (6,696m), and Kangtaiga (6,779m), flanked by the towering heights of Sagarmatha (the Nepalese name for Everest), Lhotse and Nuptse. As you descend from the village first through walled fields and then through moss-covered rhododendron forest watch out for blood pheasant and Impeyan pheasant scratching in the undergrowth. You then descend through forests of rhododendron and blue pine to the village of Trashinga – watch out here for the Tibetan traders selling their wares alongside the trail – they are very jolly ladies! You descend further to cross the Dudh Kosi at Phungithanga and then climb through beautiful forests to reach Thyangboche, the main monastery of the Khumbu area, sited on a saddle of the forested ridge.  Thyangboche lies on the ridge at the base of Kangtaiga and this position affords panoramic views of the main peaks of Khumbu including Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. It will probably be cloudy by the time you arrive in the early afternoon, but should normally be clear first thing in the morning so it will be well worthwhile getting up early for the sensational views. There should be time this afternoon to visit the monastery - it is interesting to visit at the time of evening prayers. Remember that a small donation is normally expected when you visit monasteries. Overnight lodge.

DAY 09: TREK TO DHINGBOCHE (14267FT/4350M). 5 hours. (A,B,L,D)
You will probably be woken in the early hours, while it is still dark, by the sound of horns and cymbals as the monks have their first prayers of the day. You will have time to visit the monastery in the morning if you did not go yesterday. Then, leaving Thyangboche, your path descends through trees to Deboche where the small and atmospheric nunnery is well worth a visit. You pass further houses and ‘mani’ walls as the path continues along the river valley amongst the trees. After crossing a bridge over a picturesque gorge, the path gradually climbs, with stunning views of Ama Dablam ahead. There are numerous fantastic photo opportunities in both directions, and frequent chortens and mani walls to pass, as height is gained to reach the village of Pangboche. This is a very picturesque village with stone walled fields and there is a very interesting monastery set in trees at the top of the village. This is probably the oldest monastery of the Khumbu region, possibility dating back as far as the first introduction of Buddhism into the Khumbu. There used to be a ‘yeti’ scalp and claw kept here but they were stolen some years ago. From Pangboche the path ascends above the village, the sparse landscape now reflecting the height. You pass some yak herders’ cottages and walled fields at Orsho before crossing a stream and making a final steep ascent to Dingboche. The village of Dingboche is set in a stunning position, surrounded by high peaks. In summer months they grow barley here – possibly the highest altitude in the world at which this crop is grown. For acclimatization you need to spend two nights around the 4,000m level and Dingboche, lying in a sheltered spot above the Imja Khola is generally more attractive for this than Pheriche, another settlement situated on the other side of the ridge. Overnight Lodge.

DAY 10: TREK TO CHUKUNG (4750M/15580FT) 4-5 hours.
Today we walk up to Chukhung (4750m) enjoying views of Island Peak. This is a short day, and in the afternoon there is time to relax and prepare for the days head. Depending on timing & fitness there may be time to climb Chukhung Ri’s lower peak (5417m), for staggering views of Makalu.
DAY 11: TREK TO BASE CAMP (5150M/16892FT) 5-6 hours (A,B,L,D)
The walk up to Base Camp is on a good track and takes about 3 hours. We camp by the side of the Imja Glacier, below some steep grassy slopes.

DAY 12: HIGH CAMP (5300M/17384FT) 4-5 hours (A,B,L,D)
We continue up to high camp.

DAY 13: Island Peak (6160M/20205FT) & return to Base Camp (5150M/16892FT) 8-9 hours. (A,B,L,D)
We cross the gully above the camp and follow a ridge leading onto the glacier. We rope up here and put on crampons to cross the glacier. A snow slope leads to the summit ridge, and from the top are stunning views of Lhotse (8501m) at close quarters with Nuptse (7879m) Lhotse Shar (8383m), Cho Polu (6734m) and Makalu (8475m) beyond.

DAY 14: Spare day in case of bad weather or other delays. If not needed, we will take our time on the descent. (A,B,L,D)
DAY 15: TREK TO PANGBOCHE (4,000m) 4-5 hours. (A,B,L,D)
We descend to Chukhung & Dingboche, then pleasant walking past the rock and ice spire of Ama Dablam brings us back to the friendly and picturesque village of Pangboche. It is worth spending some time here to visit the monastery.

DAY 16: TREK TO MONG LA (3,973m)  5-6 hours. (A,B,L,D)
From Pangboche you take a wonderful high trail above the Imja Drengkha river. This trail undulates along the valley side and you have fabulous views across to the mountains and Thyangboche perched on its ridge. Also, as you walk look out for Himalayan thar grazing among the boulders and lammergeyer vultures, himalayan griffon vultures and golden eagles flying overhead. Finally after about 2-3 hours you round a corner and the isolated village of Phortse lies below you, situated in a spectacular spot on a promontory overlooking the Dudh Kosi in one direction and the Imja Drengka in the other. You walk down through the village and then descend more steeply through birch and rhododendron forest to the river (look out for musk deer and pheasants in these lovely quiet woods). You cross the river and then passing a couple of isolated houses there is one hour’s final ascent to the Mong La (3,973m), a small pass marked by a chorten, birth place of Lama Sagwa Dorje. Mong La looks down on the junction of the Dudh River coming down from the Ngozumpa Glacier up in the Gokyo Valley and the Imja Drengka which comes down from Everest. At the pass, there are a couple of pleasant lodges and a very large chorten and prayer flags. The views from here are absolutely magical, particularly of Ama Dablam (6,814m). Overnight lodge - where those on the December departure will probably wish to celebrate New Year’s Eve. 2009

DAY 17: TREK TO CHUOMA (2,743m). 5-6 hours. (A,B,L,D)
From Mong La you traverse across the hillside and then descend on steep stone steps to Tashinga (last chances for souvenir shopping with the Tibetan ladies!). You then climb to Kangzhuma and take the high trail which roller coasters round the hillside high above the Dudh Kosi River. Again you have fabulous views of the mountains across the valley – principally Thamserkhu and Kang Taiga. You then descend into Namche before making the knee crunching descent back down to the valley. The warmer climate should offer a good opportunity to finally shed a layer or two. You will still have wonderful views, and the chance to relax in slightly warmer valley surroundings. Trek back down the Dudh Kosi valley for a short way past the checkpoint at Jorsale to CHUMA. Overnight lodge.

DAY 18: TREK TO LUKLA (2,880m). 6 to 7 hrs. (A,B,L,D)
Most people head towards Lukla with a heavy heart. There is something very special about the setting, the villages and the people of the high Khumbu hills and valleys and these memories will help you up the deceptively long, final climb into Lukla. The trail to Lukla follows the upward route as far as Chablung, and then turns off above the village of Chaunrikharka towards Lukla. There are signs beyond the stream at Chablung pointing you in the direction of Lukla. The broad trail, leading uphill to the left, climbs steadily past a few bhattis and the school, then through scrub forests above the school and houses of Chaunrikharka. After a steep final climb there is a collection of houses and bhattis in Tamang Tole, a new settlement a short distance from the airport. As you approach the airstrip the houses and hotels rapidly proliferate. On arrival you can finally relax and enjoy a celebratory beer. Overnight Lodge.

DAY 19: FLY TO KATHMANDU. (A,B)
Lukla is situated high above the river on a shelf at 2,800m and as the runway is on a slope there is a difference of almost 60 metres between its lower and upper ends which makes for an interesting take off. Another chance to enjoy this great flight. Please note that flights into Lukla are sometimes delayed due to weather conditions either in fog-bound Kathmandu or windy Lukla; be reassured that our staff in Lukla and in Kathmandu will be doing everything possible to minimise the inconvenience caused if this happens. Your patience in the trying circumstances, which can occur, will be greatly appreciated. On arrival in Kathmandu you will be met and transferred to the hotel.

DAY 20: AT LEISURE IN KATHMANDU. (A,B)
An opportunity to relax and reflect on your adventures and to complete any sightseeing and last-minute shopping. Overnight in hotel.

DAY 21: FLY BACK. (B)
We will serve you appropriate vehicle to transfer you to Kathmandu International Airport as per group size.


Please contact us at tours@nepalholiday.com for detail itineraty of this trip

Departure Date And Price

Jan: 1-24, 8-3 Feb, 15-10 Feb, 22-17 Feb, 29-24 Feb
Feb: 1-19, 8-26, 15-5 Mar, 22-12 Mar, 28-18 Mar
Mar: 1-19, 8-26, 15-2 Apr, 22-9 Apr, 29-16 Apr
Apr: 1-19, 8-26, 15-3 May, 22-10 May, 29-17 May
May: 1-19, 8-26, 15-2 Jun, 22-9 Jun, 29-16 Jun
Jun: 1-19, 8-26, 15-3 July, 22-10 July, 29-17 July
July: 1-19, 8-26, 15-2 Aug, 22-9 Aug, 29-16 Aug
Aug: 1-19, 8-26, 15-2 Spt, 22-9 Spt, 29-16 Spt
Spt: 1-19, 8-26, 15-3 Oct, 22-10 Oct, 29-17 Oct
Oct: 1-19, 8-26, 15-2 Nov, 22-9 Nov, 29-16 Nov
Nov: 1-19, 8-26, 15-3 Dec, 22-10 Dec, 29-17 Dec
Dec: 1-19, 8-26, 15-2 Jan, 22-9 Jan, 29-16 Jan

(Private trip without group joining? Please contact us)

QUOTATIONS BASED ON: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
Full package in group joining basis 2599 2132 1898 1735 1667 1551 1505
Service (only) in and above base camp 1454 1097 885 744 697 602 577

PRICE INCLUDES

(Full Package service in sharing basis)
  • Welcome at KTM Airport
  • Airport pick up service & transfer to your hotel
  • KTM 4 nights 2 star level hotel room in sharing basis with breakfast
  • Everest National Park Permit fee
  • Local people operated common room in lodges
  • All hot meals on trek as per itinerary order with our hygienic Eco-friendly Outdoor Menu before BC
  • 2 solar showers while on trek
  • Camp/dine fire/warm up charge where available
  • All road transport by public/private vehicle as per itinerary
  •  Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu round way internal flights
  • KTM & Lukla domestic airport tax
  • Hotel Domestic airport/bus park-hotel transfers service
  • Airport transfer to KTM Airport by vehicle after trip
(Peak climbing service in sharing basis)
  • Climbing permit
  • Climbing guide
  • A porter carry your maximum 15 kg baggage & group tent/rope up to High Camp (HC) except for solo
  • Base camp (BC) porter drop food/fuel to  BC & return (Quantity as per group size)
  • Meals in and above BC as per itinerary [-High foods & fuel (EPI)]
  • Climbing kitchen equipment for BC & HC cooking
  • Kathmandu – Base Camp – Kathmandu guiding service allowance
  • Guide & porter foods, insurance, salary, equipment, transportation & local taxes
  • Cargo (half of the total)
  •  2 men tent in sharing basis
  • Travel & rescue arrangement support (After deposit your insurance document & rescue flight advance)
  • Rope 250 fix, 50 main)
  • Ice crews, snow bar, rock piton
  • All camping site charges above base camp when/if applied
  • Applicable Govt taxes (13% VAT and 10% TSC)
  • Trip Nepali crew medical supplies (first aid kit)
  • Trip success certificate (case of trip success)

THE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE:

  • Your all kinds of insurance
  • Visa fees
  • Garbage Deposit (NMA refunds conditionally)
  • Single supplements except solo trip service
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu
  • Airport departure taxes (about USD 25 per person)
  • Bar bills and laundry
  • Optional trips
  • Tips
  • All except explained in "PRICE INCLUDES" section above
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Expedition Equipment List:

Mountaineering, a specialized form of mountain climbing that involves use of rock and ice climbing techniques, requires knowledge and gear that general hiking does not. In addition to the usual camping supplies such as tent and sleeping bag, mountaineers must bring equipment for climbing extremely steep or icy terrain.

Additionally Appendix II (SUGGESTED CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT LIST) suggested for trekking program, following is a list of the additional specialist items which are required for the trekking peaks.

Footwear
  • Double Plastic Climbing  Boots with Aveolite Liners.  Good quality plastic shells with inner boots.  Avoid tight fit with heavy socks.
    Suggestion: Koflach Artis Expedition, Scarpa Invernos, or One Sport Everest.
  • Fully Insulated Overboots.  Suggested:  40 Below K2 Overboots,
  • Outdoor Research Brooks Rangers.  Not needed w/ One Sport Everest.
  • Light hiking boots.
  • Crampons.  With "step in" bindings and flat rather than "cookie cutter" frame rails.  Suggested: Charlet Moser Super 12 Rapidfix Lanieres,
  • Grivel G12 New-Matic, or Black Diamond Sabertooth.
  • Gaiters.   Suggested:  Outdoor Research  Expedition "Crocodiles".
  • Not needed with One Sport Everest Boots.
  • Booties.  Polar guard.  Optional.
  • Wool or pile socks.  4 pair of Heavyweight wool or synthetic socks (wool is warmer) to be worn over the liner socks.  When layering socks, check fit over feet and inside boots. Remember to keep one fresh, dry pair of socks available at all times.
  • Liner Socks.  4 pair of smooth thin wool, nylon or Capilene to be worn next to the skin.  This reduces incidence of blisters and hot-spots.
  • Vapor barrier socks.  Optional.
Climbing Tools
  • Ice Axe w/Leash.  General mountaineering tool.  Sizing is important: under 5'7" use a 60cm tool; 5'7"- 6'1" use a 65cm tool; over 6'1" use a 70cm tool. (Too short is preferable to too long). Suggested:  SMC Himalayan or
  • Black Diamond Alpamayo.
  • Carabiners (4) Locking;  (6) Regular.  2 HMS Twistlock &  2 small screwgate lockers; 6 standard ovals recommended.
  • Ascenders (2).  Petzls recommended. One right and one left.
  • Rappel device.  1 Figure 8, ATC or Trango Pyramid.
  • Perlon. 40 ft of flexible 6mm.
  • Alpine Climbing Harness.  Harness should fit over all clothing, have gear loops, adjustable leg loops and be reasonably comfortable to hang suspended in.  Make sure  you can get into the harness without having to step through any part of it.  Suggested:  Black Diamond Bod Harness or Alpine Bod w/ modification.
  • Adjustable Ski/Trekking Poles.  Optional, but recommended.
  • Suggested: Leki, Life Link.
Technical Clothing
  • Expedition weight  underwear.  1 pair  Polypro or Capilene.
  • Lightweight  Underwear.  2-3 pair top & bottom, Capilene, other synthetic or wool. No Cotton.  Lightweight is preferable as it is more versatile (worn single in warmer conditions and double layer for colder).
  • Zip-T-neck tops allow more ventilation options.  One set of white for intense sunny days on the glacier and one pair of dark for faster drying gives the most versatility.  Suggested: North Face Micronamics, Marmot
  • DriClime, or  Patagonia Capilene.
  • Pile  Jacket.   Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300). A full-zip version is easier to put on and has better ventilation than a pull-over. Windstopper fleece is NOT recommended due to reduced breathability.  Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or equivalent.
  • Pile Pants.  Heavyweight pile (Polartec 300)  with full separating side zippers (This is very important for ventilation and for ease of dressing up or down when conditions change in the middle of a climb).
  • Suggested: North Face Polar Sun or equivalent.
  • Down Pants.  To fit over insulation layers.  Outer shell must be windproof.  Suggested: Feathered Friends Helios or Volant.
  • Down Parka.  (Fully Baffled, Expedition Weight, must have good hood)
  • Suggested:   North Face Baltoro,    Mt. Hardwear Absolute Zero, Marmot
  • 8000meter, or Feathered Friends Rock & Ice.
  • Gore-Tex Shell Pants & Shell Jacket with hood.
  • (Bibs recommended) For the jacket we highly recommend a long front zipper, a roomy rather than snug fit and underarm zips which go well below the armpit.
  • We also require full separating side zippers on the pants.   Suggested:
  • North Face Mtn. Bib or Mtn. Light Pant, Mtn. Hardware Exposure Bib or
  • Ethereal Pant.
Sleeping
  • Sleeping Bag.  (Expedition quality rated to at least -300F).
  • Goose down preferred for bulk & weight. Suggested:  North Face Inferno,
  • Feathered Friends Snow Goose, or Marmot CWM.
  • 2 Sleeping Pads.  One, 3/4 or full-length closed-cell foam Ridge Rest and One, 3/4 length or full-length Therma-Rest w/repair kit.
Mitts & Gloves
  • 2 Pair Synthetic Gloves.  Bunting or fleece gloves which will fit comfortably inside mitts. A heavier fleece will do a better job of keeping hands warmer when wet than lighter polypropylene or Capilene. Suggested:
  • North Face, Patagonia.
  • 2 Pair Pile Mitts and Gore-Tex Overmitts.   Outdoor Research
  • Expeditions w/double liners or North Face Down Mitts. Should be big enough so that gloves fit inside pile liners.
  • Hand warmer.  Optional.
Headgear
  • Baseball Cap or other Sun Hat.  One with a good visor to shade the
  • nose and eyes.  Include a bandanna to shade the neck.
  • Wool or pile ski hat. Make sure ears are covered.
  • Balaclava (1) Heavy weight, (1) Lightweight.
  • Suggested: North Face.  Heavyweight must fit over lightweight.
  • Neoprene face mask.  Optional
  • Head lamp  (Plenty of extra bulbs & batteries).
  • Suggested:  Petzl Zoom or Artic.
  • 2 Pairs of Glacier glasses.  100% UV, high quality optical lenses
  • designed for mountain use, must have full side covers. We highly recommend a removable nose guard.  Suggested:  Bolle, RayBan, Julbo Round "Arc".  If you wear contact lenses we recommend packing a spare pair of glasses-it is a good idea to have these with "photo-gray" or equivalent light-sensitive material so they can double as emergency sunglasses.  If you wear glasses we recommend prescription glacier glasses (dark gray or green).  No more than 6% light transmission.
  • Ski Goggles, 1 pair.  100% UV & IR.  Bolle's Chrono work well.
  • Climbers with glasses try X-700, they fit over glasses.
Camping
  • Backpack.  Internal frame pack  expandable to 6,000 cu.in.
  • Keep it simple and light, avoid unnecessary zippers, etc which add weight.
  • Recommended: North Face, Kelty, Gregory.
  • Daypack.  Optional for trekking days.
  • Swiss Army knife.
  • Bic Lighter.
  • 1 Liter Thermos.
  • Cooking Gear:
  • Cup:  16oz. plastic with snap-on lid (retains heat well and is spill resistant in the tent).
  • Spoon:  Good quality tough plastic (lexan).
  • Bowl:  Deep plastic with 2-3 cup capacity.
  • Water Bottles:  2 liters minimum capacity.  One, 1.5 liter & One .5 liter wide-mouth.  Hunnersdorf are recommended (they withstand temperature extremes and abuse better than Nalgene)
  • No water bags or bladder systems, they freeze.
  • Pee Bottle (1 Liter).  Large mouth water bottle. Mark bottle clearly.
  • Pee Funnel (for women).  Suggested:  Freshette.
  • Sunscreen.  SPF 40 or better,  2 small tubes.
  • Lipscreen.  SPF 40 or better, at least 2 sticks.
  • Personal first aid kit. Aspirin, Moleskin, Adhesive tape, Band-Aids, personal medications.

Traveling

  • Large duffel bags.  2 for transporting gear.
  • Compression Stuff Sacks work well for reducing volume (optional)
  • Especially for sleeping bags and clothing.
  • 4 Plastic Bags.  To line stuff sacks to keep gear dry and one large enough to line pack. Trash Compactor bags work the best.
  • Travel clothes.
  • Toiletry bag.  Include toilet paper.
  • Camera gear.  Optional

Note: This list is only a guide. While you are required to bring everything on this list, there are numerous options, brands, and versions of each piece of equipment, unless otherwise noted. Using our Current Suggested Brand List we encourage you to shop around, do research, use your experience and the listed features to find the best gear for you. If you have questions please contact us.

This Trip Facts
Trip Code IPE-A-2
Max Altitude 6160M/20205FT
Trip Duration 5 days
Trip Grade D
Lodging Tent /Lodge
Meals Included As Per Itinerary
Transportation As your trip plan
Communication No
Group Size Any
Best Season Spring & Autumn
Per Day Walk 7-10 HRS
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ECO-FRIENDLY TREKS & EXPEDITION
HOTLINE : 00977-9851066416
TEL: 00977 1 4431576,
FAX: 00977 1 4431576
SKYPE: ecokrish

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G.P.O. Box 11870, Bhagawati Bahal Street, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal

EMAIL : tours@nepalholiday.com, bklamsal@hotmail.com
URL : http://www.adventureholiday.travel, www.nepalholiday.com,